The calçotada, for Hillary.

http://www.culinarybackstreets.com/barcelona/2013/calcots/

MOROCCAN OUR WORLD - CHRISTMAS IN DUBLIN

MOROCCAN OUR WORLD - CHRISTMAS IN DUBLIN

So we found ourselves in a different world for Christmas this year.  Katie is in the Promised Land (Aruba); Hillary is back in the Old World (Andover) and we find ourselves in the New World.  We decided to cook a Very Old World meal – based on Moroccan spices and flavors. Last year, Hillary had visited Morocco as an exchange student, and brought back hand-made couscous and curry. We had perused all the options for a main dish, and Sherry thought that a Moroccan-spiced lamb should be the centerpiece of dinner.  Once the theme was set, we added a honey-harissa eggplant and Cauliflower Zahlouk, along with Hillary’s couscous.  Of course, a crème brulee  finished off the meal, with Eric’s alter-ego “The Torch” doing the honors.

Moroccan Spiced Lamb with Lemon, Mint and Yogurt

Ground cumin and coriander may be substituted for the seeds, however the flavor is best if you toast and grind your own seeds. Serves 6 to 8.

Marinade:
2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro sprigs (or Italian parsley)
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
4 garlic cloves, minced
Zest from one lemon
1 tablespoon Sriracha or harissa
3 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 3-4 pound boned leg of lamb, butterflied

Yogurt Sauce:
1 1/2 cups Greek-style whole milk yogurt
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon tahini
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
2 teaspoons Sriracha sauce or harissa, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the marinade: Toast cumin and coriander seeds in a skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar with pestle and grind to a fine powder. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add remaining marinade ingredients and whisk to blend. Make small incisions in the fat and meat of the lamb. Rub the marinade all over the lamb, massaging it into the meat and folds with your fingers. Place lamb in a rimmed baking dish. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

One hour before roasting, remove the lamb from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature. If grilling, prepare the grill for direct and indirect cooking over medium heat. Grill the lamb for 10 minutes over direct heat to sear, skin-side down, turning once. Move to indirect heat and grill, covered, turning once or twice, until medium-rare (a meat thermometer inserted in thickest part will read 130 F), 20 to 30 minutes. If roasting, place lamb in a roasting pan. Roast in a preheated 425 F. oven, skin-side up, for about 30 minutes for medium-rare, turning once. Finish under a broiler, skin side up, for a few minutes to brown meat. Allow lamb to rest for 10 minutes, loosely covered with foil, before carving.

To make the yogurt sauce, whisk all of the ingredients together in a small bowl. Arrange the lamb on a serving platter. If you roasted vegetables, scatter them around the lamb. Garnish with fresh herbs. Serve with the yogurt sauce.

Cauliflower Zahlouk

1 large cauliflower (largest you can find), cut into small florets

4 cloves garlic, whole

1 strip fresh lemon peel

1/8 lb green beans, cut into 1/2 inch dice

3/4 cup chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 Tbsp oil cured black olives, roughly chopped

3/4 cup – 1 cup charmoula dressing, thinned with lemon juice

Charmoula Dressing (makes 1 cup)

1/8 cup lemon juice, plus 1 Tbsp

1/8 cup red wine vinegar

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp cayenne

3 Tbsp chopped parsley

3 Tbsp chopped cilantro

1/2 cup olive oil, plus some extra if needed

salt & pepper

Place the cauliflower florets, whole garlic cloves and lemon peel in a steamer and steam until just tender (not too mushy), about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from pan.  Add green beans to steamer and cook until just tender (still having a slight crunch).

While the cauliflower is steaming, prepare the dressing by mixing the lemon juice, red wine vinegar, garlic, paprika, cumin, cayenne, salt & pepper in a bowl.  Stir in the parsley, cilantro and olive oil. Set aside.

Place the cauliflower and garlic cloves in a large bowl and mash coarsely. Add the green beans and stir in most of the charmoula dressing. Gently fold in the chick peas and olives. 

Dressing should lightly coat all the ingredients.  If you feel you need a touch more dressing, add it.  You can also add more olive oil if needed as well. 

Honey and Harissa Glazed Eggplant

Ingredients

eggplant (about 2 medium-large), peeled

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon for frying
3 small cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp harissa paste
1/4 cup honey
2 tsp tomato paste
2 tbsp lemon juice
1  tsp sea salt

Method
1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large oven tray with baking paper.
2.  Halve each eggplant crosswise then slice each half into 6-8 wedges.  Place the wedges into the baking tray and drizzle with 1/4 cup of olive oil. Coat the wedges thoroughly in oil, then spread them out in a single layer. Roast the wedges in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until they are deep golden, turning them halfway through the cooking time.
3.  Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger to the pan and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Then stir in the cumin, cinnamon, harissa, honey, tomato paste, lemon juice and salt.  Cook until the mixture starts to boil, then turn off the heat.
4.  Remove the eggplant from the oven and carefully place into the honey mixture.  Cook in a single layer for 8 minutes, turning once.  Be careful, as the honey may start to burn.
5.  When the eggplant is cooked, season to taste with extra lemon juice and salt, if needed.  Then put them into a shallow serving dish, and spoon over any remaining honey glaze.  The eggplant can be served warm or at room temperature.  Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for a day or so; just reheat in the microwave for 40 seconds (it tastes even better then).

The eggplant is cooked twice, firstly in the oven, then in the sticky, sweet and spicy honey and harissa glaze.

CRÈME BRULEE

2 cups heavy cream

½ cup milk

½ cup sugar

3 whole eggs

3 egg yolks

1 tsp. vanilla extract

¾ cup light brown sugar

1.      Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

2.      Heat cream, milk and sugar in a heavy saucepan to almost boiling.  In a separate bowl, beat eggs together well.

3.      Gradually whisk the heated mixture into the eggs, then return mixture to the saucepan.  Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard coats the back of the spoon (5 minutes); remove from heat.  Stir in vanilla.

4.      Pour custard into individual custard cups.  Set dishes in a large baking pan.  Pour hot water into the pan to come level with the custard.  Place in the middle rack in the oven.

5.      Bake for 35-45 minutes, until center of custard is set.  When done, remove custard from water bath and cool.  Cover and chill.

6.      Sift brown sugar over top of custard, spreading to the edges.  Either set the custard under a broiler, or use a touch to brown the top.  Remove and serve.

A LUCKY SUPERMARKETS CHRISTMAS EVE DINNER

SHARK STEAK WITH PINEAPPLE-PERSIMMON SALSA

We were having a quiet Christmas Eve dinner, with food supplied by our local Lucky Supermarket (and one of the Lucky execs).  Thresher Shark fillets (although more like a steak in thickness) were on sale, so Sherry decided to marinate them in an Asian marinade, with roasted Brussels Sprouts and a Persimmon-Pineapple salsa. We have been eating persimmons donated by Woody Hunter, who grows the Fuyus on his property.  We’ve now gone through about a ½ bushel of them, and they are amazing fruits for the winter season.

Sherry made a salsa from canned pineapple, several persimmons, jalapeno pepper, lime juice, chopped cilantro, and chopped red onion.  It had a superb balance of flavors, just perfect for the fish.

For the Shark, Sherry marinated the fish steaks in olive oil, Teriyaki sauce, Five Spice powder and garlic powder.  Place in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate for 24 hours.  I grilled the fish on the grill until almost cooked through, then served the fish with the salsa and Brussels sprouts.  All in all, an amazing dinners, with thanks to my friends at Lucky!

IS IT BETTER TO ASK FOR PERSIMMON THAN FORGIVENESS?

PORK CHOPS WITH SPICY PERSIMMON CHUTNEY AND ROASTED POTATOES

Winter in California is persimmon time.  They are the latest fruits to ripen and in November and December are ubiquitous at Farmers’ Markets.  One of our executives has a persimmon tree in his yard, and brought us some persimmons (Fuyu variety) for Thanksgiving.  I used some of them in an apple Tarte Tatin, and the sweet taste (pear-like) was delightful.  Unfortunately, I mentioned my enjoyment of the persimmons to him, and he said: “I’ll bring you some more.”  That turned out to be a large bag of persimmons!  The good news is that as they continue to ripen, they just soften.  I used a number of them (unpeeled, although peeling is okay) in a spicy chutney, which was amazing!  It has the combination flavors of sweet, sour and spicy, and was great served over grilled pork chops.  I’d use it over grilled fish as well.

Sherry roasted some sliced red potatoes, drizzled with Ranch Powder and olive oil, and sautéed fresh spinach with cur cherry tomatoes and lots of garlic.  An exquisite meal, thus proving that it is better to ask for persimmon than ask for forgiveness.

SPICY PERSIMMON CHUTNEY

4 Tbsp. canola oil

1 chopped onion

2 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

2 tsp. mustard seeds

1 1/2 cups cider vinegar

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 large apple, peeled, cored, chopped

3 cups chopped peeled Fuyu persimmons (about 5-6 medium)

1 cups raisins

3/4 cup sugar

1 chipotle in adobo, chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

In heavy medium skillet over moderate heat, heat oil until hot but not smoking. Add onion and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add mustard seed and ginger.  Cook 1 minute, then add vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, apple, persimmons and raisins, and cook for 15-30 minutes over low to moderate heat, until fruit is soft and most liquid has been removed and mixture has thickened.  Add chipotle, cardamom and coriander.  Cook for another 5 minutes. Chill for 1 hour before serving.

WOK-STIRRED CARAMELIZED CHICKEN LEGS WITH ASIAN SPICES

So, we finally moved into our house in the Bay area, but none of our regular cookware made the trip – the movers left 4 boxes of stuff behind!  We had planned to cook some chicken, so Sherry made up an Asian-inspired dish, cooked up in the wok.  We served this wonderfully spicy dish with the all-time local favorite – Rice-A-Roni – which had been given to us as a gift.  Perfect timing!   Enjoy!

WOK-STIRRED CARAMELIZED CHICKEN LEGS WITH ASIAN SPICES

2 chicken leg quarters, skin removed

Soy sauce

Sambal oleck (chili paste)

Minced garlic

Ginger paste, or minced ginger

Vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

Bunch of baby carrots

Hoisin sauce

Sambal oleck

Unsalted cashew pieces

Tangerine pieces (or sections of an orange)

1.      Marinate chicken leg quarters in first five ingredients, in Ziplok bag, for 2-4 hours in refrigerator.

2.      Sauté onion and carrots in wok with vegetable oil until soft.  Add the chicken pieces and marinade liquid, along with hoisin sauce and a little more sambal oleck (for spiciness).  Add the tangerine pieces and cashews. 

3.      Cook for 40-50 minutes, stirring, until the chicken is done and the sauce is caramelized.

4.      Serve with rice or Rice-A-Roni.

Mt. Lassen Rainbow Trout!!!

Last week, our local Save Mart (purveyors of fine foods across Northern California and my favorite place to shop) was offering Mt. Lassen rainbow trout, and I have to say that it was one of the most delicious trouts I have ever had.  I used a coarse corn meal as the base, with cumin, paprika and chipotle pepper powder mixed in, as the coating, then pan-fried until done.  Served with our own cassoulet, it was a memorable meal.

CASSOULET

·         Olive oil, to coat skillet

·         1/4 pound turkey or regular bacon, cut into small pieces

·         2 shallots, minced (you can also use red onion instead)

·         3 Tbsp. minced garlic (from jar)

·         2-3 cans (15 oz) cannelli (white) beans, drained

·         1 bunch swiss chard (any type, although Bright Lights looks prettier), washed 3 times and chopped

In large skillet, add olive oil.  Over low-medium heat, add bacon, and cook until rendered (fairly well cooked), stirring frequently.  Add chopped shallots and garlic, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring.

Add chopped chard and drained beans.  Stir to mix well.  Cover for 3-4 minutes, until chard has wilted.  Remove cover, and cook, stirring, until most liquid is evaporated (and when some beans stick to the bottom of the pan).

Serve.

BELATED JUNE-FEST

With all of the fuss and bother over our planned move to Northern California, I neglected to post a spectacular meal we had in June with the Deerys, before they headed to Northern Michigan.  I managed to take some photos of the meal, in preparation, but with the need to pack up the house, ship stuff out West, and tidying up the books, I was not able to put together all of the recipes. It was a doubly incredible meal – not only was the main course and accoutrements amazing, but we served an even more amazing dessert.

We had decided to prepare a great combo meal – Asian influenced.  Sherry marinated some pork tenderloin in a creative Asian marinade, which I then grilled a day later, and made some of her “Super Slaw”.  Sherry’s slaw has been a staple at summer holidays for years, and it complements a summer meal (which in Charlotte lasts from the end of May to the end of September!) quite well.  I added a flavored Smoked Paprika polenta to the dish, and it was incredible.  As amazing as it was, we had to remind our guests that the best was yet to come, and we were right!!

The dessert was based on a recipe from the Boston Globe magazine.  It used fresh strawberries, which were in season in the Carolinas.  What I mean is that you have no idea what a strawberry tastes like until you’ve eaten the fresh-picked (not shipped) strawberries grown locally.  Nothing like it (although the local peaches and apricots in California come close).  It used goat cheese to make a Strawberry-Goat Cheese Mousse, and the word “amazing” is not inappropriate for this dish.

PORK Loin Marinade

1 TBS Vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onion

5 TBS sugar

1 1/2 Cup dry red wine

3/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

2 1/2 TBS chopped Ginger

1 TBS cinnamon

1/4 tsp. black pepper

Heat oil in saucepan.  Add onion and sugar.  Sauté until onions are golden.  Mix in wine and remaining ingredients.  Cook for one more minute. Remove from heat and cool. Place pork loin in large resealable bag with marinade six hours or overnight.

Make salsa by cutting up peaches, mangoes, red onion, small piece of chipotle and adobe and a little lime juice and cilantro. 

Grill pork and put salsa over.

Super Slaw

Ingredients

• 6 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 5 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 3 tablespoons (packed) golden brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic

• 5 cups thinly sliced green cabbage
• 2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage
• 2 large red or yellow bell peppers, cut into matchstick-size strips
• 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into matchstick-size strips
• 8 large green onions, cut into matchstick-size strips
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

preparation

Whisk first 7 ingredients in small bowl to blend. (Dressing can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before continuing.)

Combine remaining ingredients in large bowl. Add dressing and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE AND STRAWBERRY PARFAITS

1½ pints strawberries, cored and quartered

½ cup sugar

Salt

1 cinnamon stick

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1¼ teaspoons plain gelatin

1 cup heavy cream, cold

6 ounces fresh goat cheese, at room temperature

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Chop 8 or 10 of the strawberries, toss with 1½ tablespoons sugar, and let macerate for an hour. Drain, reserve ¼ cup macerated berries, and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan over medium heat, toss the remaining berries, 3 tablespoons sugar, a pinch of salt, and the cinnamon stick and cook, covered, 10 minutes. Uncover and cook, mashing, 5 minutes longer. In a bowl, stir the lemon juice and gelatin and set aside to soften, about 5 minutes, then stir in the hot strawberry mixture. Cover and refrigerate until just set (not hard), about 90 minutes. Remove the cinnamon, stir in the larger quantity of macerated berries, and refrigerate.

Up to 3 hours before serving, in a bowl, whip the cream with 1 tablespoon sugar to soft peaks. In another bowl, beat the goat cheese, remaining sugar, vanilla, and a pinch of salt until very thick and smooth. Beat in a third of the whipped cream, then fold in the rest. Cover and refrigerate mousse for about 15 minutes.

To assemble, in each of 4 parfait glasses, layer the strawberry and mousse mixtures, beginning with strawberries and ending with mousse. Top with the reserved macerated berries and serve.